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by
Zooh Corner Rabbit Rescue
Below
is a list of items all good rabbit homes should have on hand. Knowing
your rabbits “normal” behavior (so you know when s/he
is acting “wrong”) and good health care and vet check-ups
will go a long way towards preventing emergencies. But you never
know when something will happen and it is definitely better to be
prepared!
- Thermometer,
rectal, preferably digital, and lubricant such as KY jelly
Lubricate tip of thermometer, insert tip only gently into rabbit’s
anus (located just beneath the tail), wait approx. 1 minute and
remove. Ask your vet or vet tech for a demonstration.
- Heating/cold
pad
- Peroxide,
for shallow wounds, broken nails, abrasions
- Betadine
(for cleansing bites, cuts, lacerations, broken nails (before
using styptic)) NOT for punctures wounds or deep cuts
- Neosporin
(non pain relief formula)
- Cotton
swabs, sterile cotton balls and gauze bandaging
- Blunt
tipped scissors
- Saline
( for eye injuries)
- Toenail
trimmers & styptic powder (cornstarch will work in a pinch)
- Simethicone
(anti gas, found in baby medicine section of store or pharmacy)
35 or 60cc oral syringe
- A
couple of 1 and 3cc syringes
- Ground/powdered
pellets or Ox Bow Hay Co’s. Critical Care for syringe
feeding (good for 3 months, 6 months if frozen)
- Veggie
baby food (carrots, peas) – make sure it is additive
free, no sugar, etc.
- Sugar
free fruit juice or Gerber’s baby ‘Apple Carrot Juice’
(to encourage bunny to drink)
- Hairball
remedy (malt flavored)
- Flea
comb and brush
- 81mg
Baby Aspirin (ask vet dosage for you individual rabbits)
- A
large towel for wrapping, cuddling, calming a stressed,
frightened or injured bunny (or one who is difficult to give medicine
to!)
In
case of general emergency (vet trip, fire, earthquake, etc.) –
for each rabbit (or pair)
- Hard
plastic carrier, with metal front gate and adequate floor covering
(towel, grass mat, etc. (a bunny can chew through a plastic front
gate))
- Food
and water for 5 days, which you will periodically change for fresh
supplies. Water should be changed every 4-6 months, if it is store
bought and unopened. Store in cool pace, away from sunlight.
Pellets, in a well sealed container or zip lock, may be stored
for 3 months, 6 months if frozen.
- Extra
food and water crock for ‘traveling’, to vet or on trips.*
*When
you travel with your rabbit, whether it is to the vet, to a friends
house or a long distance, always make sure you bring a long some
food and water and bowls to use, in case your car breaks down or
you are somehow temporarily stranded.
SIGNS
THAT YOU SHOULD GET TO THE VET IMMEDIATELY
Lack of consciousness, unexplained or profuse bleeding, labored
breathing, head tilt, lack of coordination, not eating (if your
rabbit misses or ignores even one meal, call your vet ASAP), not
drinking, no poops for 8-12 hours, not urinating or straining to
urinate, blood in the urine, inability to put weight on a limb.
Grinding the teeth and/or sitting in a tight posture, dull eyes
are signs of great distress and/or pain. ALL of these symptoms warrant
immediate veterinary attention. And of course, if you are in doubt,
call your vet.
Know
your vet’s schedule. Some vets only work a few days per week
or have extended hours on certain days---know this, it will come
in handy. Have a back-up vet for when your vet is out of town, busy,
not in the office; know local emergency vets, especially those who
see rabbits. Keep names, addresses and phone numbers posted where
you or anyone caring for your pets can easily find them. Know where
all the vets are located, even if you have to do a trial “drive-by’.
Getting lost or having to write down directions when you are panicked
will lose precious time! If you cannot get to a rabbit vet during
an emergency, get to a vet – period! Basic emergency care is
similar for all animals (i.e., stabilize, assess, oxygen, wound
care, etc.).
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