Rabbit pellets, the sole diet typically fed to pet bunnies, are not all that most people think they are. They were originally formulated as a convenient and economical way to promote quick growth and weight gain in commercial rabbits raised for food and fur - NOT what we plan on using our pet bunnies for - so why base their whole diet on them? Pellets are high in calcium and protein and generally they are too fattening for the average, healthy adult bunny.
We want our pets to live long, healthy lives, therefore it is important to recognize their very specific dietary needs, just as one would a dog or cat! This is why Zooh Corner recommends that you feed your rabbit unlimited amounts of grass hay (not pelleted, cubed or chopped) plus a variety of fresh vegetables - and a limited amount of rabbit pellets - every day.

Keep in mind that time balance is just as important to your rabbit's diet as is nutritional balance. Divide the pellets and vegetables between the morning and evening meals, while having hay and fresh water available at all times.

Also note: Exercise is just as important as diet in keeping the rabbit gut functioning & healthy.

NOTE ON DIET CHANGES: When you reduce or change your bunny's pellets, do so very gradually, while increasing her daily greens. Add one new vegetable at a time (about every three days). If no diarrhea occurs and she likes that veggie, it's ok. If diarrhea does develop, or if bunny doesn't like it, discontinue that veggie. Quick changes to the diet can cause diarrhea or an overgrowth of 'bad' bacteria in the gut, which can be fatal.

PELLETS: Free feed a plain, fresh, high fiber (18-20%), mid-range protein (14% - 16%) pellet to babies under one year old (check bag for info). Adult rabbits should get 1/4 to 1/2 cups of low protein pellets (10% or lower) PER DAY - per five (5) pounds of optimum* body weight - split between am & pm. If you have a rabbit that is hard to keep weight on - or off, consult your vet. Do not feed your rabbit any of the pellet-seed-dried fruit mixes that look so pretty to us humans. They are no more than junk food, too high in fat/carbohydrate content and they are extremely unhealthy for your bunny. It is best to buy your feed in smaller amounts from local feed stores and use it within 30 days - to retain freshness & best nutrient value. *Optimum body weight is how much your rabbit SHOULD weigh, not how much your rabbit does weigh. Consult your vet for this information.

HAY: Hay (loose, long stems, not chopped or cubed) is the most important factor in your rabbit's diet. It is her prime source of fiber, which is instrumental in keeping her gut in good working order (able to digest and excrete properly). Fresh timothy, oat and other grass hays should be available to your rabbit at all times, 24/7. Alfalfa hay, which is higher in calories as well as calcium (can cause kidney or bladder stones in older rabbits) is okay to feed to physically fit bunnies under the age of one, but unless you are feeding a mix of hays, we advise against this, as you may have a hard time converting your rabbit to a healthier "less sweet" hay! Hay is also a source of entertainment! Bunnies love to pull, shove, dig and arrange their hay "just so;" plus, a rabbits teeth grow continuously which means they need things to chew upon (bunny safe wood toys, etc.) - munching hay is a great way to help keep your rabbit's teeth filed down (but don't forget to check them!).

VEGETABLES: Slowly begin introducing veggies into your rabbit's diet when s/he turns about six months of age - and not before then. Begin slowly, a bit at a time until you reach the desired amount - over a month or so. A variety of veggies is important to help balance the nutrients in the diet. Feed approximately two cups of fresh veggies for each five pounds of optimum* body weight. It is important that you feed a variety of veggies, at least three daily, and make sure one or more contains Vitamin A (see Acceptable Fruits and Vegetables on other side) to make sure she gets the necessary nutrients.

If you notice your bunny is eating up all the veggies, but leaving too much hay untouched, try offering a few less veggies for the next few feedings and see if it encourages her to eat up more of that nice, fibrous hay we keep talking about.

FRUITS: Rabbits are not natural fruit eaters and fruit is high in sugars, which convert to fat. Therefore, give limited, high fiber fruits, one or two tablespoons per five pounds of optimum body weight, once or twice a week - if at all. DO NOT give fruit to dieting bunnies, or baby bunnies - or bunnies with ongoing gastro-intestinal (GI) troubles.

VEGETABLES (AND FRUITS) THAT ARE GOOD FOR YOUR BUNNY

NO GRAINS, LEGUMES OR NUTS! These are not natural foods for rabbits and they can be very dangerous to gut function.

¹ Good source of vitamin A, feed at least one daily

² Some bunnies may find this a rather "gassy" veggie. If diarrhea occurs, remove from diet.

³ These veggies are higher in calcium, use sparingly, once or twice a week. For older buns, or those with bladder or kidney problems, avoid, unless otherwise directed by your rabbit vet.

⁴ High in either oxalates or goitrogens, which can cause or exacerbate sludging, and other calcium/kidney problems. Use sparingly!

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